The best carpaccio I ever had looks like this. No lemon, no parmigiano, not even a drop of oil, just a round plate of thinly sliced, raw Chianina beef. A meat head. If you look closely you even see its features. The only thing superfluous is the salad wig, which reminds us of the stupid habit in kitchens all over the world to offer an alibi to a carnivore he never asked for.